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1x1 Rib - Also 2x2 rib knit trim. The width of each rib is the same as the width between each rib. This helps the garment retain its elasticity.

Abrasion Resistance - The ability of a fabric to withstand loss of appearance or surface through surface wear or rubbing.

Acrylic - Generic name for man made fibers derived from polyacrylonirile. Features a soft, wooly hand; wash and wear performance; brilliant high shade colors; good sunlight and wrinkle resistance.

Air Jet Spun Yarn - During Air Jet Spinning, yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air, the fibers are stretched to the appropriate size, then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted, first in one direction, then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. The yarn is stabilized after each operation. Yarn produced on Air Jet pills less because the spinning process creates a tighter outer wrap which holds typically loose polyester fibers in place.

Anti-Pill - A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric's surface due to abrasion during wear.

Argyle - A popular design for knitted fabrics, both hand and machine knit. Two or three colors generally are used in a diamond-shape pattern.

Baby Pique - Very small pique knit. See Pique.

Back Pleats - Small folds in the material on the back of a garment that allow for more room and comfort.

Banded - Fabric is folded double and sewn down. Refers to t-shirt collars and staff shirt sleeves.

Basket Weave - A variation of a plain weave in which two or more yarns weave alike in both the warp (vertical) and filling (horizontal) directions. The name probably derives from the similarity to basket work structure. The weaves produces a rather LOOSE construction.

Berber - A texture very similar to Sherpa, but with a heavier, more woolen texture - used for Outerwear.

Bird's Eye Jacquard - A pattern that resembles a bird's eye.

Blanket Stitch - A decorative stitch used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the fabric.

Box Pleat - A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and comfort.

Brushed Cotton - Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish.

Buckram Backing - Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to stabilize embroidery, edges.

Burguntal Cloth - Constructed from 100% nylon. This durable base fabric has a water-repellent finish applied to the face, which prevents water drops from soaking into the nylon. The back is coated with Polyurethane for added water resistance and wind protection.

Byron Collar - Collar with large points and not much of a roll.

Cap Sleeves - Sleeve type used mainly in women's styles but also used in unisex styles. Standard t-shirt sleeve length is approximately to the elbow. Cap sleeves would fall midway between the elbow and shoulder.

Carded Cotton - Yarn that has been cleaned, aligned and formed into a continuous untwisted strand but has NOT gone through additional spinning processes like combing or ring spinning.

Carding - Preliminary process in yarn spinning. Fibers are separated and made into more parallel-untwisted strands called slivers. This process also removes most of the impurities and a certain amount of short or broken fibers.

Chambray - A dressier fabric woven with white threads across colored threads.

Chevron - A zigzag stitch very similar to Herringbone.

Colorfast - A term used to describe fabrics of sufficient color retention so that no noticeable changes in shed takes place during the "normal" life of the garment.

Combed Cotton - Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers and straighten or arrange longer fibers in a parallel order.

Constructed - Crown of a cap has buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn.

Coolmax - Certification mark of the Dupont Company, for knitted fabrics made of polyester fibers that are grooved on the outside to facilitate better wicking and moisture evaporation.

Cordura - Trademark of Dupont Company, for air-textured nylon yarn.

Core Vents - Efficiently dissipate excess body heat and perspiration vapor.

Cotton - Cotton is named for a shrubby plant of the Mallow family, for the fiber surrounding the seeds, and for the cloth woven from the spun fibers. Each of the seeds, which are contained in capsules, or bolls, is surrounded by white or cream-colored downy fibers that flatten and twist naturally as they dry.

Coverseaming / Coverstitching - Two needles to overlap the threads underneath, reinforcing the seams with a smooth layer of threads. (looks similar to double needle stitching)

Crocking - The tendency of excess dyes to rub-off. Napped, pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking. With pigment dye process, this can occur if the garment is NOT washed before worn.

Denier - Is to polyester as singles is to cotton, however with denier, the SMALLER the number of denier, the THINNER the strand of polyester and the LARGER the number, the THICKER the strand of polyester. (this is opposite of singles)

Dobby - When weaving fabric, geometric shapes are woven in the weaving pattern.

Double-Needle Stitched - A finish used on a sleeve and/or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability.

Dyed-to-Match - Described buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.

End-on-End - An alternating color for striped effect.

Enzyme Wash - A fabric softening process that gives a soft hand to fabric and wears the color VERY slightly. Does NOT have a washed out look like pigment dye.

Extended Tail - When the back portion of the garment is longer than the front. Assists in keeping the garment tucked in during normal activity.

Four-Needle Stitching - Used to reinforce the waistband in shorts and sweatpants.

French Placket - Is to woven shirts as a set-on placket is to staff shirts.

Full Cut - Refers to a garment's fit as being generous and roomy.

Garment Dyed - A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled.

Garment Washed - A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax or bloom. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand.

Glen Plaid - Popular Scottish pattern for sportswear characterized by checks of two different sizes with similar color patterns. Made in many grades of fabric.

Graded Collar - The size of the collar changes proportionally with the size of the shirt.

Grommet - An eyelet of firm material (metal or plastic) to strengthen or protect an opening.

Gusset - Insert (as in the sleeve seam or side panel) to widen and strengthen.

Hand - The "feel" of a fabric or print.

Heather - Blended fibers combined to create a vari-colored effect; e.g. heather gray. Heathered fabric typically contains 2 fibers: cotton, polyester or rayon.

Herringbone Knit - A chevron or zigzag pattern, knit into fabric.

High Profile - A cap style with a high slope structured with buckram - a stiff fabric lining.

Interlock - Double knit construction makes this the heaviest of the 3 knits. Similar to a Jersey knit except both front and back of the fabric look identical. Interlock is the tightest weave, which gives the smoothest surface and the finest hand.

Jacquard - A design or pattern in the fabric and/or collar.

Jersey - Fabric has definite smooth side, the outside; and a textured side, the inside.

Kangaroo Pocket - A large front single pocket, with the side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle (see also Muff Pocket)

Kasha Lining - A lining principally for jackets featuring cotton flannel, napped face and imitation chambray back.

Knapping - Refers to the inside of a fleece garments. Garment fabric brushed with a wire brush to give a very soft hand.

Kodel - Polyester fiber created and trademarked by Eastman Kodak Company.

Lisle - This type of yarn has a soft hand, is a very fine count (singles) and is 2-ply.

Locker Loop - A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook.

Locker Patch - A semi-oval panel sewn into the back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook.

Low Profile - Any crown of a cap that is LESS than 4" in height. Not to be confused with Unstructured.

Lyocell - Generic name for Tencel.

Marled Yarn - Twisting a solid color yarn with a yarn of various colors to create a varied color effect.

Medium Weight - Classification for fabric of 22 to 24 single yarn, where the number of yarn denotes the overall fabric weight.

Melange - A mix of different colors or yarns knit together to create a heathered effect.

Melton Wool - A heavily felted non-lustrous fabric. The heaviest is used in outerwear.

Mercerization - Treatment for fabric (cotton yarn or cloth) that swells the fiber and gives is luster or shine. Slightly preshrinks yarns and makes it stronger. This also helps with dye acceptance and improves fabric absorbency.

Mesh - Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Larger knit than Cool Weave.

Micro Fleece - A high density, anti-pilling fleece made of knit micro-fibers that are brushed less than a regular fleece garment. It has a high capacity for warmth without the weight.

Microfiber - Fabric that is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has a sueded finish for luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellent due to its construction process and when specially treated, can also be waterproof.

Mid Profile - A cap with a slope height in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. Is most often structured with buckram.

Moleskin - Supposed to simulate fur of a mole. Carded cotton is knapped or brushed and then sheared for smoothness to provide a suede fur effect.

MTR Fleece (Maximum Thermal Retention) - A non-pilling, 100% polyester fleece that provides a soft, warm insulating layer. Weighing about half as much as wool, MTR fleece is quick drying and remains warm even when wet.

Muff Pocket - A large single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle. (see also Kangaroo Pocket)

Nailhead - A woven in or engineered design.

Neoprene - A generic name for a type of synthetic rubber.

NuBlend (Jerzees) - Trademark process of spinning yarn that virtually eliminates pilling.

Open-End Spinning - A system of spinning based on the concept of introducing twist to the yarn by rotating the yarn end at a gap in the flow of fibers between the delivery system and the yarn package; a much faster operation than ring spinning. Open-end yarn has a coarser hand than ring-spun cotton.

Ottoman - Heavy, large, filling rib yarns, often of cotton, wool, or waste yarn; covered in their entirety by silk or manufactured fiber warp yarns, characterize this fabric used for womenswear and coats.

Overdyed - A process in which yarn dyed fabrics or piece dyed garments are put through an additional dye color to create unique colors.

Oxford - A modified plain or weave. Can be striped or checked by using groups of various colored yarns.

Piece Dyed - This term is used when knitted cloth is dyed, prior to being assembled into a finished product.

Pilling - Accumulation of fibers on the surface, caused by wear and washing. In 50/50 fabric, cotton fibers tear and become tangled with the stronger fibers on the surface of the garment. A higher cotton content results in less pilling.

Pigment Dyed - A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look.

Pima (cotton) - Refers to type of cotton. Originally grown by the Pima Indians. It's a very fine, long staple (refers to the length of individual fibers) cotton. It is a very soft and strong fiber that accepts dye well.

Pinwale - A very narrow ridge or rib in a fabric (from 16 to 23 wales to the inch). E.g.. Pinwale corduroy

Pique - A knit sometimes called LaCoste because that company popularized its use. Has a distinct right and wrong side. The right side resembles a Honeycomb or a waffle and the wrong side is flat and smooth. Has a course, firm hand and generally uses fine yarns.

Placket - A slit extending down the front of a shirt from the neck. The slit is usually secured with buttons.

Polynosic - Type of fabric that has a twill texture with a very soft "silk like' feel. This fabric will also protect against 95% of the UV rays from the sun.

Poplin - A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.

Print Pro - A knitting process developed by Hanes for their fleece garments that creates a tighter knit for a better printing surface.

Quilted - Jacket featuring a lining with two or more layers and a padded filling.

R-Tek Fleece - 100% polyester fleece with an anti-pill finish which prevents the formation of little balls on the surface of the fabric.

Raglan - A type of sleeve sewn in with the seams slanting outward from the neck to the underarm.

Reinforced Placket - A square or rectangular sewn area used to strengthen and reinforce the bottom of a placket.

Rib Knit - A form of knit fabric with vertical rows of knitting loops visible on both sides of the cloth. This fabric features more elasticity than jersey knit.

Ring Spun Cotton - Yarn produced on ring frame equipment; typically, this is a finer yarn, producing a softer hand.

Ringer T - T-shirt, with solid body featuring ribbed crew neck (and sleeve bands) in a contrasting color.

Ripstop - Very fine woven fabric, often nylon, with coarse, strong yarns spaced at intervals so that tears will not spread.

Saddle Shoulder - Variation of a raglan sleeve, where the shoulder portion forms a straight band cut in the same piece with the sleeve. It is seamed front and back parallel to the shoulder instead of at an angle as in raglan style.

Sandwashed - A washing process in which the fabric is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage.

Seamless Tubular Collar - Increases durability of collar and prevents splitting of collar seams.

Self Collar - Collar comprised of the same style of piece goods used in the shirt body. The seam is made by sewing the two collar parts together with a lining in the center for support.

Set-In Sleeves - Style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam. The seam is straight up and down from the shoulder seam to the underarm.

Sherpa - As garment is woven, the outside of the fabric is brushed with a wire brush to give the garment a very soft "fuzzy" feel.

Shoulder-to-Shoulder Taping - Shoulder seams, as well as neck seam are covered by tape or binding. This reinforces shoulder and neck seams, and reduces separation of the seams.

Shrinkage Rate - Approximately 4-5% on most 100% garments after preshrinking or compacting.

Side Vent - Slits found at the bottom of the side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and ease of movement.

Singles - A term used to indicate the diameter of the yarn; the smaller the number, the thicker the yarn.

Slash Pockets - A pocket that has to be entered through a slash on the outside of the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.

Stonewashed - A washing process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls. The result is a softer fabric with a distressed look and reduced shrinkage.

Structured - Crown of a cap has buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn.

Sueded Cotton - A fabric that goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand.

Tactel - Trademark of the Dupont Company, for filament nylon fiber.

Talkeetna - Design for all-season active outdoor sports, Talkeetna shells use Core Vents and new Hyvent waterproof/breathable coating to help keep the body cool and dry.

Taped Seams - A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, the taped seams aid in waterproofing.

Taslan - Refers to how fibers are woven and the resulting texture. Used mainly in outerwear garments, Taslan is a durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface.

Teklon - A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent.

Tencel - Trademark of Columbia. Made from the natural cellulose found in trees especially grown for this purpose. It has a very strong fiber; soft, smooth hand; excellent drape when worn; low shrinkage and good wrinkle resistance.

Terry Velour - A type of material with uncut loops on both sides. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent.

Tubular Collar - Collar which is knit in a tube form so it has no seams.

Twill - A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.

Undervisor - The colored material on the bottom side of a visor.

Unstructured / Unconstructed - When there is no buckram in the crown of a cap. The cap only has shape when placed on the band.

Visor (Peak) - The front of a hat or cap that extends out from the front panel and acts as a sunshade. Also, a type of headwear that consists of the peak or sunshade only so that the top of the head is exposed. When referring to a full cap, visor is interchangeable with peak.

V-Notch - Triangular 2-ply patch of material sewn to the front of the neck for decorative purposes.

Waffle - Stitch used in knit goods to produce a series of waffle-like designs.

Wales - The individual loops of a course (vertical rows of loops). Also, when referring to corduroy, the amount of ridges per inch in the fabric.

Water-Repellent - The characteristic of a fiber to resist wetting. Most water repellent garments have a coating to achieve water repellence, such as DWR (Durable Water Resistance).

Welted Sleeve Cuffs - One piece of rib knit material sewn on the cuff, collar or placket of a shirt.

Yarn Dyeing - Yarn, which has been dyed prior to the weaving of the goods; follows the spinning of the yarn.

Yoke - A part of a garment fitted closely to the shoulders.